Pour white rice into a bowl and add cold water to cover. Soak white rice for 15 minutes. Rinse rice in a strainer well so the water runs clear, not cloudy. Drain and set aside.

In a large saucepan, heat plant-based milk over medium-high heat. Drop in the lemon zest and cinnamon stick. When it comes to a simmer, add the rice, then cook for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Just about the time you’ve had it with stirring, the rice will start drinking up the plant-based milk. The mixture will thicken and smell really good—cinnamon-y, rich, and oddly sweet considering you’ve added no sugar.

So add the sweetness. Pour in the sweetened condensed coconut milk, stir well to combine, and taste. It is now absolutely sweet enough for me, but if it’s still a little sugar-shy for you, pour in the 1/4 cup cane or coconut sugar. Stir to dissolve. Add the vanilla. Keep stirring for another 15 minutes as the pudding thickens to prevent sticking or burning. If it starts to bubble, reduce heat to medium low but keep stirring until the rice yields graciously to the tooth but isn’t mush. Remove from heat, fish out the lemon zest and cinnamon stick, and allow the pudding to cool for 30 minutes. Then cover with a lid or plastic wrap to avoid a tough pudding skin from forming and refrigerate for several hours or up to 2 days before serving. The rice pudding will continue to thicken as it cools.